Our patterns are designed for a height of 1.68 m. So if you're much taller or much shorter, you'll need to adjust your pattern slightly.
Here, we'll learn how to lengthen a pattern. We've also created a tutorial on how to shorten a pattern.
General Rule
If you're a little taller than 1.68 m, there's no need to make these alterations.
However, if you're 1.76 m tall, for example, you'll want to lengthen the pattern. For this tutorial, we'll use 1.76 m as an example.
It is generally accepted that the difference is evenly distributed between the upper and lower body. We will therefore say that the pattern is 4 cm shorter on the upper body and 4 cm shorter on the lower body.
But keep in mind that when you're taller, you're taller all over—from your forehead to your ankles. So if you're 1.76 m tall, you shouldn't add 8 cm to the pattern!
It is generally accepted that you should add 1 cm for every 2 cm of difference.In our example, we will therefore add 2 cm to the upper body and 2 cm to the lower body.
This is a rule of thumb: if your bust is larger than your legs, then balance it out by adding 3 cm to the bust and 1 cm to the bottom, and so on.
How to Lengthen a Pattern
The basic technique is always the same. It works almost every time.
If you feel lost while following the instructions, it means the pattern has a specific feature—so don't hesitate to look up the tutorial for your pattern.
Step 1: Locate the “Lengthen/Shorten” line on the pattern and cut along it
All of our patterns have a double "lengthen/shorten" line to help you know where to make adjustments without throwing the pattern off balance.
Start by locating this line, then cut out the pattern along one of the double lines (here, we’ve chosen to always cut along the top line, but it doesn’t really matter which one you use).
Step 2: Restore the grain line
Here, we used a blue sheet of paper for the extension. We're going to tape the top part of the pattern to this sheet.
Then we extend the arrow for the straight line onto our blue sheet of paper.
Step 3: Extend by x cm
Next, measure out x cm on our blue sheet of paper and draw a line. In our example, we measure 2 cm and draw a line.
Next, tape the bottom of the cut-out pattern along this line, making sure to align the grain arrow!
Step 4: Redraw the side lines
Using a ruler or freehand, depending on the shape of the pattern, redraw the side seam and center front lines.
Step 5: Cut along the new lines
All that's left to do is cut out the pattern along the new lines you've drawn.
For a neater result, you can trace the entire piece onto pattern paper if you'd like.
Which parts need to be lengthened?
If you decide to lengthen a pattern, you must lengthen all the pieces affected by the adjustment.
At Majam, all of these pieces include "lengthen/shorten" lines. This generally includes the front, the back, certain facings, and sometimes pieces specific to the pattern in question.
And if you'd like to learn even more about pattern alterations, check out the Majam Academy course, "Pattern Alterations: The Essentials"