Is it possible to sew jersey fabric without a serger?
Enough with the suspense—the answer is YES! You can definitely sew stretch fabrics on a standard sewing machine, but it does require a few supplies and a little patience. We’re going to focus on the most commonly used stretch fabric in the textile industry: jersey.
Jersey is a lightweight knitted fabric. As a bit of trivia, it gets its name from the island of Jersey, where it was first produced in the Middle Ages. Originally made of wool, it is now also available in cotton, synthetic fibers, or simply a blend of fibers. Since it’s a knitted fabric, to avoid creating holes, you’ll need to:
Specialized knitting needles for jersey
What makes them special?
Well, they have a rounded tip, unlike traditional needles, which have a pointed tip. This means that special jersey needles don't make holes or damage your fabric.
If we wanted to, we could add even more types of needles, such as a double-pointed needle, which would be handy for hemming and creating neat finishes.
Jersey needles:
What stitches should I use when sewing jersey fabric?
The stitch available on all machines that will give you good stretch is the zigzag stitch. Set it to a long stitch length and a wide stitch width, and you're good to go—step on those pedals!
If you’d like, for areas that are subject to heavy wear and will be stretched frequently, you can use the triple-layer zigzag stitch.
A great solution—if your machine allows it—is the triple-layer zigzag stitch. (See symbol onthe stitch chart.)Its three-part construction makes it elastic,and it’s perfectly suited for jersey fabrics or for sewing directly onto elastic, by the way.
Finally, some machines have a serging stitch (see the symbol on the stitch chart). This stitch mimics the work of a serger, so if you have one available, feel free to use it as much as you like.
Which presser foot should I use?
A standard presser foot will work just fine. That said, if you have a special overlock foot, that would be even better!
In fact, there’s a black guide on the right to help you sew, plus a bar in the middle, and when you sew (CAUTION: NEVER USE A STRAIGHT STITCH, or you’ll break the needle), the thread rests on the bar on both sides and then returns to the fabric as you move forward.
How should I handle the fabric?
When using elastic stitches—such as zigzag, triple zigzag, and overlock—simply be careful not to pull on the fabric so as not to distort it and, consequently, not to distort the final piece.Of course, these are general guidelines that you’ll need to adapt on a case-by-case basis as you gain more experience.
For example, if you’re sewing stretch jeans that stretch ONLY lengthwise, you can use a zigzag stitch while gently pulling the fabric lengthwise to create even more stretch, but never across the width.
If you want to use a straight stitch, you can do that too, but we recommend it only for people with some experience. You can sew jersey fabric with a straight stitch by pulling on the fabric (exactly the opposite of what we mentioned earlier), but you have to adjust the tension with which you pull the fabric, so once again, it’s good to know that it’s possible, but it’s best to avoid it until you have enough experience.
Which yarn should I use?
High-quality polyester thread is recommended.
There you go! Now you have everything you need to sew jersey fabric without a serger.
